Wood glue is woodworker’s best friend. Many variations—including nontoxic varieties—exist, meaning it’s pretty easy to find the one that best suits your needs.
When creating a woodworking project, the most important thing you need to pay attention to is the joinery technique as well as the wood glue to hold your project together.
When it comes to the types of wood glue, there are plenty of options, but you need to choose one of them. Different types of wood require different kinds of wood glue.
5 Types of Wood Glue
One size does not fit all when it comes to wood glue, and you’ll need to know how to sift through the pile of options out there and choose the right one for your project. Here we”ll break down five popular choices, and when to use them.
1. PVA glue
Polyvinyl acetate (PVA) glue is super common — in fact, if you have a bottle of glue in your house, it’s probably this. White glue, yellow glue and bottles of “wood glue” are usually all PVA glue. Some, like Titebond III, are even waterproof. PVA glue is well liked because it’s so easy to come by, but it’s not always the best choice. Dried bits of PVA glue can interfere with your finish if you’re not careful to get rid of it all.
2. Hide glue
Yes, this one comes from animal hides. This tried and true option has been around for centuries, and it’s also what hot glue is made from. Hide glue is handy since it can be heated up and applied to the workpiece with a brush.
There’s also a version of hide glue called liquid hide glue that comes in a bottle, ready to go. You can use it just like PVA glue, and it won’t interfere with finishes if you fail to get every last bit of dried hide glue off the wood. This is a favorite of mine, and it’s a champion all-around glue for most projects unless you need something waterproof. Order it online if you have trouble finding in store.
Epoxy comes in two parts: a resin and a hardener. Both are liquid, but when mixed together, a chemical reaction occurs that causes the epoxy to harden. Epoxy is waterproof and, unlike other options, it does a good job filling gaps in wood. Some epoxy formulas take a while to cure, while others will cure in as little as five minutes. Just remember that, generally, the longer it takes for the epoxy to cure, the stronger the bond will be, so don’t just look for the fastest-drying.
4. Cyanoacrylate glue
CA glue, or super glue, isn’t just for fixing random items around the house. It works for wood too, and it cures really quickly. If you’re pressed for time, you can even apply an accelerant to make the CA glue set even faster.
Use CA glue as a temporary step, like if you’re joining two curved pieces of wood together. A glue block can be attached to the pieces, and that’ll give your clamps a place to hold onto. Then once the pieces are glued together, a tap with a hammer or mallet will knock the glue blocks right off.
5. Polyurethane glue
Polyurethane glue is activated by moisture, and naturally swells as it dries. It does dry very hard and quickly (plus it’s waterproof!), but dealing with dried polyurethane glue can be rough for finishes.
When you’re choosing your glue, all of these are great options that’ll provide a strong bond for most purposes, especially for furniture projects. So make sure to ask yourself these questions before selecting:
- Do you need the glue to be waterproof?
- How long you have to work with the glue before it starts to set up?
- Do you need to fill a gap between pieces of wood?
Once you have a clear picture of what you need, choosing the right glue is simple.
Which Type of Wood Glue to Choose?
When it comes to choosing the right glue for your project, all of the above mentioned glues will provide a strong enough bond, especially for furniture projects. The things you need to take into consideration is whether you need the glue to be waterproof, how long you need to work with the glue before it starts to harden, and whether you need to fill a gap.
I usually use PVA glue in my projects because I can always find it at the local home center, and when I need strong waterproof bonds I use 5 minute Epoxy. So, the choice is yours, take your time and pick the right glue for your project.
Best Recommended Wood Glue
1: Franklin International 1414 Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue
Franklin International 1414 Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue features a special proprietary waterproof formula that is ANSI/HPVA Type 1 water-resistance rated, making it extremely resistant not only to water, but atmospheric changes associated with humidity.
Long open assembly time
Titebond III’s longer open assembly time allows for more detailed woodworking applications. Your project can be done at your pace, in your time. This means you won’t have to worry about it drying out before you complete a task.
Lower application temperature
Lower application temperature is another key feature of Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue; you can work outside in the cold, and it will still retain its original characteristics, allowing for easier work outdoors when you have less control over temperature variations.
Titebond III is well-known for its strong initial tack. It’s also resistant to water, mildew and solvents, and holds strong regardless of what finish you use for your woodwork, making it a very versatile wood glue for a variety of woodworking tasks.
One of the things that a lot of people don’t realize is that some wood glues are actually very toxic. But that’s not a problem with Titebond III. Not only is it nontoxic, but it it’s FDA-approved for indirect food contact, which means it’s safe to use on cutting boards and knife holders, among other things.
This characteristic is also important to what makes Titebond III not only a good outdoor wood glue, but a great indoor wood glue as well.
- What to like:
- For interiors and exteriors
- Fan favorite among professionals
- Superior strength
- Ultra-strong initial tack
- Waterproof: ANSI/HPVA Type 1 rated
- Low application temperature
- Long open assembly time
- Resistant to solvents
- Resistant to mildew
- Works well on any finish
- Sands easily
- Water cleanup
- FDA-approved for indirect food contact
What to consider:
Titebond III dries with a bit of its tan coloring still visible; this won’t affect most woodworking applications, and it’s important to note it wipes away clean with water while wet. However, it’s important to note it does retain its coloring when dry.
Gorilla Wood Glue
Gorilla Wood Glue is a PVA, water-based wood glue that provides superior strength thanks to its cross-linking bond formula. This means it’s suitable for any woodworking application, even larger, heavy-duty outdoor applications.
Wood glues take longer to dry than their cousins of other glue types, but Gorilla is well-liked for its relatively fast-drying wood glue. Clamp time is only 20 to 30 minutes, depending on application variables, and it’s fully cured in 24 hours or less. This makes Gorilla Wood Glue ideal for projects with a quick deadline.
Gorilla Wood Glue is not only ideal for indoors, but is very suitable for outdoor use as well due its water-resistance. It boasts an ANSI/HPVA Type II water-resistance rating, a guarantee of superior water-resistant action.
One of the great things about Gorilla Wood Glue is it’s suitable for just about any wood type you can imagine. Not only is it great for softwoods, but it’s also very suitable for hardwood and even natural wood composites. If you’re a beginning woodworker or crafter, this glue will take the guesswork out of wood compatibility.
Gorilla Wood Glue is designed to be safe for indirect food contact, per the FDA’s indirect food contact standards. While it’s not suitable for direct food contact, it’s designed to be safe for things like kitchen equipment that doesn’t directly touch food, like spice racks and the like.
What to like:
- Strong with cross-linking bond formula
- PVA, water-based wood glue
- Versatile: Great for any hardwood, softwood or wood composite
- Fast-drying: 20-30 min clamp time; <24 curing time
- Water-resistant: ANSI/HPVA Type II rating
- Safe for indirect food contact
What to consider:
Like a lot of other high-quality wood glues, Gorilla Wood Glue dries to what the manufacturer calls a “natural” finish; this means that it won’t be completely invisible when dry. That said, this will not affect most woodworking applications, but is important to note.
Elmer’s E7010 Carpenter’s Wood Glue
Elmer’s E7010 Carpenter’s Wood Glue is nontoxic, which means you don’t need any gloves or protective face or eye coverings to use it. It’s also fume-free, making it a better choice for those with sensitivities to smell.
Elmer’s E7010 is designed to be stronger than wood for superior tacking and staying power.
If you make a mess, simply wipe the glue away with water while it’s still wet for easy water cleanup.
Sandable and paintable
Elmer’s E7010 is ideal for hobbyists, because it’s easily standable and paintable, allowing you to get creative with your woodworking for a variety of applications.
What to like:
- No noxious fumes
- Stronger than wood
- Water cleanup
- Available in various sizes
What to consider:
- It’s not designed with a high waterproof rating, so it’d be best to opt for a different glue for any projects that may be subjected to a lot of water.
Dries to a natural finish; not a con, but worth a note.
Franklin International 5063 Titebond Original Wood Glue
The biggest feature of Titebond Original Wood Glue is easily its versatility. Not only is it ideal for wood, but it can be used on leather, cloth and other common crafting and woodworking materials.
Titebond Original is nontoxic and free of solvents, making it a friendlier choice around the house.
Cleaning up stray glue is easy; simply wipe away wet glue with water.
Titebond original is an aliphatic-resin glue that’s been trusted for over 50 years due to its strong tack and long-lasting hold.
What to like:
- Heat and mildew-resistant
- Works with a variety of porous materials
- Water cleanup
- Strong formula; great initial tack
- Fast-drying: shorter clamp time
What to consider:
Like most wood glues, this will not dry clear; it features a natural/tan finish.
Professional Grade Cyanoacrylate (CA) “Super Glue” by Glue Masters
Glue Masters’ Professional Grade Cyanoacrylate comes in varying viscosities; the thick viscosity formula provides an easy and highly-manageable gluing experience.
When speed is important, Professional Grade CA settles in 50 seconds or less.
Glue Masters’ CA works great not only on wood, but puzzle pieces, china, glass and more.
What to like:
- Thick viscosity provides ultimate control/ease of use
- Fast settling at 50 seconds
- Versatile: Suitable for wood, glass, china, etc.
What to consider:
- Cyanoacrylate has a shorter shelf life than other glues; expires about a year after opening.
- Cyanoacrylate is toxic; don’t use near food, children or pets.
Causes severe chemical burns when coming into contact with cotton and some other natural fibers; always read cyanoacrylate instructions carefully before using.
How To Glue Wood Together Without Clamps
Here is a simple trick to glue two small pieces of wood together, using just a suction effect. It will be much easier to position the parts exactly in the right place and avoid the sliding movements caused by the use of a clamp.
Wood glue takes a while to set, and that can be a problem when you can’t use a clamp to hold the two pieces in place. For situations like that, a little super glue is all you need.
Wood glue as you know is very strong but it can take a long time to set up. We often need to use clamps to hold the pieces together while the glue dries. If we don’t have clamps or the shape isn’t possible to be clamped this tip should hopefully help.
Still use wood glue for its strength but also add super glue for its fast setting time. Super glue is very strong hen gluing wood but it is more than strong enough hold the pieces together while the wood glue dries.
Simply apply the wood glue leaving small gaps, then add a couple of dabs of super glue in the gaps. Hold the pieces together for about 10 seconds and there you have it. No need for clamps. I demonstrate in the video just how strong the hold is after a few seconds.
I also thought a great application for this would be for adding molding to wood. Instead of using brad nails, use a few dabs of super glue and wood glue instead.
Make Sturdier Wood Joints by Using Hot Glue as a Clamp for Wood Glue
In this video from the Woodomain YouTube channel, Jeremy Broun reveals some clever ways to use a hot glue gun in your workshop. In fact, you can use hot glue as decent method for clamping two wood joints together while wood glue dries. Add wood glue along the edge of the surface you want to join and leave a dry spot in the center. Dab some hot glue in the dry center, then attach the the two pieces of wood together. The hot glue in the middle will keep the wood clamped together while the wood glue dries to create a nice, sturdy joint.
How to remove dried wood glue in a safe and fast
Wood glue is just as important as a hammer, nails, and screws in woodworking projects, but excess can get all over before you know it. Once the glue dries, it can spoil the way your finished or prepared piece of carpentry looks. Therefore, it is important you know how to remove dried wood glue in a safe and fast way which will not damage the surface of the wood.
Step 1 – Locate
Most wood glues will dry clear when you use them. This can make it difficult to locate problem areas. So, to compensate for this, wet a sponge or large cloth, and rub it over the surface of the wood, giving it a gentle squeeze as you go. The water will darken the surface of the wood, and any areas of dry glue will show up as a clear break in the dark and damp pattern. This is also a good way to locate very small areas of dried wood glue.
Step 2 – Weaken the Glue
You need to weaken the dried glue stain by applying a glue solvent to loosen it. The solvent you use will depend on the type of wood glue which has been used. Check any directions or guidelines on the solvents’ packaging for more information about what you might use or ask a store associate for advice.
Apply a small amount of solvent to the specific area, and leave it on for about an hour before you try and scrub it off. During the wait, it leak into the glue and weaken the structure, which will make it easier to remove. Do not wait too long, however, or the solvent will leak into the wood fibers.
Step 3 – Scrub
Now for the hard work. Take a piece of steel wool or a brass wire brush and scrub the glue stain with a gentle amount of pressure. If you are too violent, you will wreck the surface of the wood beneath where the glue has set. Remember to scrub in the direction the wood grain runs to ensure all pores are free from dried glue particles. Once you have scrubbed as much as you can, take a large dry cloth and rub down the area you have been working on.
Step 4 – Sand
Take a large piece of general use sandpaper and go over the area where the dried glue was. Be gentle because you will be sanding the top surface of the wood. If your piece is a result of a home carpentry project, use the same sandpaper you used to previously work on the wood if you still have it. All remains of the dried glue should be gone at this point, and the area will be prepared for any future decoration such as a small paint layer.
Step 5 – Clean
Finish the process by using a damp cloth to clean the surface of the wood, including the area you have just worked on. This will rid the wood of any dirt, dust, and debris which may have accumulated as a result of scrubbing and sanding. Cleaning is essential in making sure your handy work looks professional.
Afterward, you can move on to adding any stain or finishes to your project piece without worrying about problems with dried glue.
How to remove wood glue after stain & poly
At this stage of the game there are 2 options that I am aware of. you can scrape it and sand back to the wood as you have mentioned. That will probably do as much bad as good. Not impossible but not fun. The second thing would be to take some you your top coat and mix some stain in it. Get a small brush and gently apply this over the white places.
In the future you can use a liberal amount of water on a rag with something small like a pick or knife point to remove the glue. Put the rag over the point of the tool and remove all the glue. This will not hurt the wood or your project.
Applying the dyed finish is probably the best choice at this point. With dentil molding it would be virtually impossible to use the blue tape to protect the surface during the glue up and wiping, brushing, or scraping the uncured glue would be a real problem as well. One problem with allowing a lot of squeeze out and then removing the excess is that the glue can penetrate the wood and then it will not take stain like the surrounding area.
Diluted glue can be used as a sealer to prevent blotching when staining for just this reason. The best “fix” is to avoid the squeeze out in the first place. With difficult things like your molding avoid the temptation to use too much glue. It doesn’t take much to get the pieces to adhere.
Removing Adhesive From Painted Wood
Price stickers, decorative stickers and name badges all have an adhesive back that sticks to surfaces either purposely or by accident. Removing the stickers typically involves peeling the sticker off the surface. Although the sticker is no longer on the surface, the tacky adhesive residue remains — and adhesive residue collects dust and dirt and leaves a blemish. Several methods, however, are effective for removing adhesive without damaging the painted wood surface.
Rub your finger over the adhesive residue, moving it in only one direction. Continue to rub your finger over the adhesive until the adhesive comes away from the painted wood. Add a squirt of liquid dish soap to warm water and dip a soft, cotton rag in the water. Wipe away the remaining adhesive residue with the damp rag.
Dip a cotton swab or soft rag into rubbing alcohol and rub the tacky adhesive. If the adhesive covers the cotton swab, use a new alcohol-soaked cotton swab. Continue gently rubbing the adhesive until no adhesive remains on the painted wood surface.
Mix equal amounts of water and white vinegar in a bowl. Dip a cotton swab into the mixture. Rub the cotton swab over the adhesive until the adhesive is no longer visible and the area no longer feels tacky.
Wet a soft rag with olive oil. Rub the olive oil over the adhesive mark until no adhesive remains. Add a squirt of grease-fighting dish detergent to warm water. Dip a sponge or soft rag in the soapy water and wipe the olive oil residue off the surface. Dry the painted wood surface with clean, soft rag.
Dip a cotton swab into an acetone-based nail polish remover. Rub the cotton swab over the adhesive until the adhesive disappears. Change cotton swabs frequently as the acetone pulls the adhesive off the painted wood surface and covers the cotton swab. Wipe the painted wood surface with a damp rag to remove the acetone residue.
Direct hot air from a hand-held hair dryer at the adhesive residue until the adhesive becomes soft and pliable. Rub a clean, cotton rag over the adhesive, beginning on the outer rim of the adhesive mark and working toward the middle. Continue to heat the adhesive and wipe the painted wood until no adhesive remains.
Wet a clean, soft rag with a commercially available adhesive remover. Wipe the adhesive mark with the rag until the adhesive comes off the painted wood surface. Some adhesive removers require applying the adhesive remover to the adhesive mark, letting it remain for five to 15 minutes and then wiping it away with a clean rag. Wipe the area with a damp rag to remove the adhesive-remover residue.
How to Properly Use Silicone Glue on Wood
Silicone adhesive is the best kind of glue that you can use, especially when attaching wood pieces that will be constantly under pressure. So long as you make sure to apply it properly and let it dry, its hold should have no problems lasting for a long time.
Silicone glue, otherwise known as silicone adhesive, is one of the strongest and most versatile adhesive products available on the market. It not only provides a firm, durable hold, but it’s also flexible and allows great sealing facility while attaching pieces together. It’s also highly resistant to heat and cold, water, and UV-rays, but only when it is properly applied. Follow the steps below when using this substance for wood pieces.
Step 1 – Prepare
When it comes to using silicone glue, it is important to remember that wood surfaces should be clean, as smooth as possible, and dry. Use a sander to smooth the surface and to remove an minor imperfections while you’re at it. Then, dust the wood pieces with a tack cloth to remove debris. If you’re planning to add any paint or stain as well, allow it all to dry properly, according to packaging instructions, before continuing.
Step 2 – Apply Silicone Glue
Silicone glue comes in different sized tubes and can be applied directly to the wood. Bigger sized tubes fit perfectly in caulk guns to better facilitate the process, especially if you are working on a large area.
To apply the adhesive, get hold of the tube, or gun and tube, and start adding it around the edges. There is no need to completely cover the wood because this adhesive is very strong; if you are working on small pieces of wood (10 by 10 inch or smaller) you only need to apply a small lining around the edges. If you fear that applying glue to the edges is not enough, you should then work in a zigzag or crossing fashion to create better working space for adherence. You should still take care not to use a huge amount even with more glue because too much will result in an overflow when placing pieces together. Once you have applied the glue, you can attach the wood.
Step 3 – Allow for Proper Dry Time
Although silicone glue dries up to a very durable and strong adhesive, it takes a very long time to do so, at times even up to three days. So it is very important to let it dry properly.
If you are attaching small pieces of wood, you should put on a bit of weight on them or clamp them together while they dry. On the other hand, if you are working on large areas remember to always add a support and a weight to keep the wood pieces in place and pressed together. When gluing something more like shelves, it is also important to create a sort of support while the glue is drying the piece doesn’t fall off before the adhesive can cure.
How to Dissolve Epoxy Resin
Epoxy resin is a very powerful substance that can be found in various products from home paint to glue. The most common epoxy resin you will encounter is in glue that is super bonding. Once the epoxy resin dries, it creates a surface that is nearly impossible to break through. You can chip away at epoxy if you have to remove it but you will never get all of it off. There is a reason why this adhesive is often referred to as liquid nails. The only real option for removing epoxy resin is to dissolve it.
Step 1 – Consider Safety First
Cleaning chemicals are a lot harsher than most people usually think. When using these to try to dissolve epoxy resin, you can seriously dry out and damage your skin. The fumes can also be damaging to your lungs, so always make sure that you are wearing your gloves, mask, and glasses prior to starting this process.
Step 2 – Chisel Dried Adhesive
Epoxy resin will harden like a rock in under a minute, and nothing you have will remove a globule of this material. When this happens there is little recourse but to remove as much of the resin as possible, and for this, you will need to chisel it away. Place a metal putty knife at the base of the glob, at about a 45-degree angle. Gently tap the end with a mallet to start removing pieces of the dried resin. Remove as much as you can in this manner, adjusting the angle of the putty knife as needed. Switch to the plastic scraper during the process to help reduce the profile of the dried mass. The goal is to make it as flat as possible.
Step 3 – Removing the Rest of the Epoxy Resin
Even if you’re quick to wipe away the resin before it dries, there will still be a film left behind. This is where the chemicals come into play. Take a rag and saturate it with paint stripper first. The chemicals used in paint strippers are formulated to not dissolve epoxy resin but rather melt it. Ball up the rag and put it on top of the residue. Hold it in place for a minute, and then quickly use the plastic scraper to work at the leftover adhesive. Work quickly because the epoxy resin will re-harden just as fast as it did the first time. Repeat until the debris is completely gone. Never try to rub away epoxy resin because you’ll simply spread it out over the affected surface instead of removing it.
Step 4 – Finishing Up
Never leave paint stripper on the floor. Instead, wipe the area down with a clean rag then spray with a cleaner. Let the cleaning solution sit for several minutes before wiping it away. Spray the area more than once if needed.
How to make glue for wood
How to Make Wood Glue From Household Items
Casein glue is a natural material made from animal proteins. While formaldehyde-based glues are the new commercial standard, since they are more resistant to moisture and fungal growth, casein glue was used in the construction of major building projects for centuries and is just as efficient for everyday use. Casein glue can be made at home using common household items and works as an excellent substitute for store-bought wood glue.
Things You’ll Need
- Baking soda
- Paper towel
- Skim milk powder
- Stirring spoon
- White vinegar
Add water to skim milk powder to produce 100 mL of skim milk. The directions on your packet of skim milk will list the appropriate amount of water to add.
Pour water into a pan and add 15 mL of white vinegar.
Heat the contents of the pan on a low heat, while stirring with the stirring spoon. When the contents begin to curdle, remove the pan from the heat immediately so as not to ruin the glue.
Create a filter by placing a paper towel over the top of the funnel. Pour the contents of the pan onto the paper towel so that the liquid drains through and the curdles of casein remain on top.
Wash the casein under lukewarm water to remove any remaining vinegar.
Stir a half teaspoon of baking soda into the curds in a separate container until the contents have achieved the consistency of regular wood glue.
So better to use half of it. After some months i experienced if we use Listerine one tavle spoon in it along with other ingredients, it will stay for mire long time. But because many people don’t have Listerine at home most if the time so without this also you can make it with the ingredients down below.
To make this super strong glue we need: Sugar = 300 gram Flour = 190 gram Listerine or any antiseptic mouthwash= 2 Tbspns. Vinegar = 3 tablespoons Baking soda= 2 tablespoons Water= 1 litre room temperature Remember do not stop stirring in the whole procedure.